Everest 1953 - The Epic Story of the First Ascent belongs up there alongside Hunt's Ascent of Everest, complimenting rather than competing with it and adding to the narrative without detracting from the original. Based on painstaking research the book doesn't just retell the famous story in a far more flowing style than the original but fills in the gaps along the way. The long standing mystery of why Eric Shipton, aka Mr Everest, was suddenly replaced by Hunt as expedition leader is finally revealed, along with details of a little known Cho Oyu expedition that effectively sealed Shipton's removal. Through scouring sources around the world the author can also reveal not only how the Times managed to fool the rest of the media into thinking the expedition had failed but also how Tom Bourdillon was almost credited with the first ascent by a slip of words.
The author's dedicated work has effectively completed the story Hunt left half told. From the vaults of the RGS to the archives of the Alpine Club, from interviewing team members first hand to reading the personal letters they sent back home no stone has been left unturned. Each source and statement has been carefully referenced with a comprehensive list of references and further reading at the end of the book. As a reference book alone Everest 1953 is invaluable, but the author also manages to tell the story, from the 1951 reconaissance trip to the mayhem around the world following the success, in a free and flowing style. Where Hunt's original book seemed, at times, devoid of feeling or emotion Mick Conefrey's book pulls the reader into the story, getting them involved to the point that even though I knew the plot so well once started there was no way I was going to put it down before reaching the end. As a child Hillary's chapter in the Ascent of Everest had stood out for its writing style as well as it being (to a ten year old) the highpoint of the story. Conefrey has skillfully managed to convey the whole story with the same emotion as that single chapter of Hillary's work to such a point that reading the account of the summit team reaching the South Col on their return I still cried, just as I did reading Ascent of Everest some 40 years earlier. Everest 1953 is without a doubt the most complete story of that epic expedition, and as the first ascent approaches its 60th anniversary it's still one hell of a story.
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