13 year old Ella Kirkpatrick on El Capitan in 2012

As a 12 year old Tori Allen, now aged 24, was already a professional rock climber and by 13 held all 4 domestic titles in USA climbing. In 2001 she became the youngest female to climb El Cap before going on to success at the X Games a year later. The first Allen heard about Ella Kirkpatrick's ascent was earlier this year and while wishing to clarify the issue regarding the title of "youngest female" she blames the media and misinformation for the mix-up. "A month or so ago, during an interview with "Girls Climbing Strong", the interviewer asked me my thoughts about a British girl who had broken my record on El Cap. I had not heard this news and was intrigued, so I did some research. What I found was that I believe that her claim may be in error".

"I have no doubt that this young climber, Ella, and her family acted in good faith in their claim, which seemed to be based on erroneous information they had been given about me (that I was 14 when I climbed El Capitan). Also, no matter how old Ella was, I still remember how hard it was to climb The Nose of El Capitan and I have a huge amount of respect for her accomplishment. So, bravo, Ella!"

"That said, though, in my research, I found that Ella climbed The Nose in October 2012 and by February 13th of 2013, she had already turned 14 (according to an interview posted here). That means she climbed El Cap at the end of her 13th year. On my part, I turned 13 on July 30 and then finished climbing El Cap on September 10th of the same year (2001). I was at the beginning of my 13th year...by just a little over a month."

Allen provides a comprehensive collection of supporting evidence of her claim to retain her place in the record books with This link  from the official Florida State University athletic site, link to Scott Corey's website, who accompanied her on the climb and additional support from Hans Florine who organised the climb.

Although wishing to set the record straight Allen neither doesn't blame Ella or her family for the mix up and expresses her admiration for the young British climber. Talking exclusively to MyOutdoors Allen says "I can clearly see how the media promoted an idea that Ella's family never had any thought of promoting. That has happened to me many times in my life. When that happens, it is so hard to un-do...and creates so much conflict (even though you didn't have anything to do with it.) Honestly, I have read so many blog posts by Ella and her dad over the past month...and interviews with Ella, that I have fallen in love with them. Ella's dad has only the best intentions at heart for his kids... that is so touching. And, Ella, she is such a pure spirit. If I were 14, I would die to be BFF's with her. She is amazing. I hope we can meet one day. We share a very special bond...climbing that CRAZY wall at age 13. It's no easy task!"

Note: This article was restored from the archives. It's published creation date is inaccurate.