The main live auction and takes place on Thursday 25th September with proceeds going to Community Action Nepal, the charity founded by Doug Scott. The auction includes unique items and some of the most iconic pieces of mountaineering history ever to go to auction. The online auction starts today and bids will be taken online up until and during the dinner, when Bonhams will also accept bids from in the room for the main eight items. Below is a list of some of the main lots.
There are two links to use for anyone who wants to place a bid:
- Everest The Hard Way 50th anniversary celebrations (main eight items - online and concluding at the VIP dinner on 25th September) - Bonhams : Everest The Hard Way 50th Anniversary Celebrations.
- Everest the Hard Way online sale (online only until 26th September) - Bonhams : Everest the Hard Way Online sale.
Doug Scott’s Everest summit wind suit by G&H (main auction and online)
Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to climb Mount Everest at 6pm on the 24th September 1975. They climbed Everest by the steep, fearsome South West Face, which had defeated all previous attempts. Chris Bonington, the expedition leader, wrote the best-selling book documenting the climb ‘Everest The Hard Way’.
The photograph of Doug Scott standing on the summit, wearing the G&H Products Nordwand windsuit, is one of the most famous Everest photos of all time. It was also the only photograph taken on the whole expedition by Dougal Haston, as Dougal said that photography just gets in the way of climbing. However, Doug handed Dougal his camera saying “Here you are youth. Take a snap for my mother”
The suit was developed by Doug, Everest 1975 Equipment officer Dave Clarke and Brian Haskin and Gordon Conyers at G&H. The design was very advanced, featuring a breathable ventile inner layer (green) and a windproof outer layer (blue) made from lightweight rip-stop nylon, with a polyurethane coating – material regularly used to make spinnaker sails.
It cleverly stopped the wind whipping away warmth and prevented the build up of moisture, which might then freeze. Dave Clarke described it as ‘a sophisticated boiler suit’!
Although the wind suit was designed to be worn over a down suit, Doug chose NOT to wear a thick down suit for his summit bid, as he found it too constrictive. Doug wore just silk underwear, a fibre pile suit and the G&H wind suit. He then survived a nine hour bivouac, just below Everest summit at 28,000 feet, without tent or sleeping bag!
Doug wore the suit again just before he passed away (Dec 2020) in a charity ‘Everest Stair Climbing Challenge’.
Without a doubt, this G&H wind suit has a legendary place in mountaineering and Everest history.
Chris Bonington Olympus OM-1N camera and lens (main auction and online)
Chris Bonington is one of the world’s finest mountain photographers. His photographs have featured in countless books, magazines, websites and on lecture theatre screens around the world. Fifty years on from the South West Face of Everest there is still a steady demand for his amazing photography.
Chris began using Olympus cameras in 1974, with the introduction of its OM-1 compact single-lens system. The OM-1 is a fully mechanical, full frame camera.
Olympus loaned the 1975 Everest South West Face expedition, free of charge, 20 Olympus OM-1 bodies and a range of lenses: 28mm and 35mm wide angle and 77 – 150mm zoom, plus other specialised lenses. The agreement was that the cameras would be returned to Olympus after the expedition ended.
Chris continued to use Olympus cameras throughout his climbing career, including the change to digital cameras.
The camera Chris has offered for auction is an Olympus OM-1N from the late 1970s/early 1980s. It includes an Olympus 28mm Zuiko lens.
Doug Scott’s Chouinard-Frost Piolet (ice axe) (main auction and online)
This Chouinard-Frost ice axe dates from between 1972 and 1975 and might therefore have been used on Doug’s two expeditions to Everest in1972, his expedition to Mount Asgard in 1972 and his expeditions to Changabang and Pic Lenin in 1974. The axe is 70 cm in length and wears obvious signs of heavy use. The hickory shaft is slightly loose where it joins the axe head and the metal tip and ferrule at the bottom of the axe have been replaced with non CAMP parts.
These ice axes, a classic and influential piece of mountaineering equipment, were designed by Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost from California, USA, but manufactured in Italy by the C.A.M.P. company. With just one set of teeth on the pick and marked with both the Chouinard and Frost names, this is an early example of this ice axe, likely dating from 1970 or 1971.
Doug also used a Chouinard - Frost axe on his ascent of the South West Face of Everest, albeit a shorter 55cm example.
Two Berghaus Lumley Jackets donated by Berghaus (main auction and online)
Taking inspiration from decades of mountain exploration, the Lumley jacket’s heritage inspired design combines modern 600-fill Hydrodown technology with nods to pioneering ski wear development by Berghaus. It was launched in 2024 by Sir Chris Bonington as part of the Berghaus Icons range. One jacket to be auctioned with a walk with Sir Chris Bonington. One jacket to be auctioned with a climb with Leo Houlding
‘Everest’ fine art print by Graeme Lothian signed by notable mountaineers including Ed Hillary, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington (main auction and online)
Artist Graeme Lothian was born in 1960 in Sri Lanka. He gained places at both Wimbledon and Byam Shaw Schools of Art and studied under Gertrude Franklin-White at the Samuel Palmer School of Art in Shoreham.
Graeme had painted extensively all around the world, including visits to Nepal, during which time he produced this painting of Everest. His recent works include a large painting of Her Majesty the Queen Elizabeth II funeral, which hangs at Ghurkha HQ, Sandhurst and two paintings of King Charles III Coronation coming down The Mall.
Graeme produced a number of fine art prints for Doug Scott. As Doug then travelled the world, he would get notable Everest mountaineers to sign these prints, then auctioning the signed prints to raise funds for Community Action Nepal.
This print has been signed in pencil (the correct way to avoid UV light fading of the signature) by:
Sir Edmund Hillary (1919 – 2008): made the first ascent of Everest, along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay in May 1953 on the expedition led by John Hunt.
George Band (1929 – 2011): member of 1953 (John Hunt) Everest expedition
Charles Wylie (1919 – 2007): member of 1953 (John Hunt) Everest expedition
Mike Westmacott (1925 -2012): member of 1953 (John Hunt) Everest expedition
Michael Ward (1925 – 2005): member of 1953 (John Hunt) Everest expedition
Rebecca Stephens MBE: First British woman to climb Everest (May 1993)
Doug Scott CBE: First Briton to climb Everest, with Dougal Haston (Sept 1975)
Sir Chris Bonington: Leader of British Everest South West Face Expedition 1975 and climbed Everest himself in April 1985
Graeme Lothian: artist
Dougal Haston’s Everest Deutsche-British 1972 aluminium expedition trunk (main auction and online)
Dougal Haston died in 1977 after being avalanched whilst skiing near his home in Leysin, Switzerland, aged just 36.
He was perhaps the ‘poster boy’ of British mountaineering during the 1970s. He had made the first ascent of the Eiger direct in 1966 with Chris Bonington and John Harlin, visited Everest for the first time in 1971 and climbed Annapurna South face with Don Whillans and Chis Bonington in 1972. Reserved in character, he had a finely developed mountain sense and considerable determination. Dougal was an obvious candidate for Chris to invite to climb the South West Face of Everest in 1975. Dougal reached the summit with Doug Scott – the first Britons to do so.
The Everest 1972 expedition trunk, made by the British engineering company Warwick Equipment Ltd., features Dougal’s name on its lid. Made of aluminium, it is of very high quality, in working order and has been used in recent years by Doug Scott to store his own mountain tents and to store equipment at the recent Everest The Hard Way 50th anniversary exhibition!
The twist in the tale regarding this trunk is that Dougal didn’t actually take part in the 1972 Deutsche-British expedition! Don Whillans, who was an expedition member and organised the purchase of these trunks, perhaps hoped that Dougal might join the team…but he never did.
Doug Scott, who was part of this expedition, has a similar trunk, which is part of the Scott family’s mountaineering archive.
Order of Service from Sir Edmund Hilary’s State Funeral, signed by George band, Jan Morris, Mike Westmacott, George Lowe and Alfred Gregory (1953 exp members)
14 page order of service from state funeral of Sir Edmund Hilary – 300mm tall x 200mm wide on thick card quality paper signed by members of the 1953 expedition. Official Invitation to Government House reception from NZ Governor General. Entry card to official service.
Doug Scott’s 5.10 Guide Tennie approach shoes (online auction)
Doug wore these 5.10 approach shoes as his daily ‘knocking about’ footwear -whether it be around the house, in the office or working in his garden and organic veg plots. The shoes are as Doug last wore them, complete with garden soil in the treads!
Size: UK 9.5, USA 10.5 Euro 44 (Made in China, Adidas era)
Guide Tennie shoes are one of the most popular approach shoes/boots around. Featuring 5.10’s ‘dotty’ sole and sticky rubber they are suitable for rough approaches to technical scrambling and of course gardening.
Doug Scott’s Five Ten Ascent rock shoes: USA made (online auction)
Like many climbers Doug always had a pair of rock shoes / boots rattling around in the boot of his car for whenever the opportunity to climb presented itself.
Here’s a well-used and resoled pair of Doug’s Five Ten Ascent rock shoes.
Size: UK 10.5, USA 11.5, Euro 45. Hook and loop straps. Made in the USA (pre-Adidas takeover in 2011)
Founded in 1985 by California climber and engineer Charles Cole, Five Ten rock climbing shoes (named after the US climbing grade 5.10), featured a very sticky ‘Stealth Rubber’ sole, specially developed by Five Ten. They soon became a favourite shoe, used by top climbers across the world.
The Stealth Rubber compound found its way into other outdoor footwear including mountain biking shoes.
Doug Scott’s Asolo AFS Expedition Carbon Fiber Ice Climbing boots (online auction)
Doug’s Asolo ice climbing boots likely date from the early1990s. They were designed for high altitude, technical ice climbing. The stiff carbon fiber shank made them perfect for sustained front pointing. They, of course, show signs of hard use and the ‘plastic’ boots tongues are now cracking due to age. Size 12, Made in Italy and possibly worn on climbs during the early 1990’s such as Hanging Glacier Peak, Kanjirobi Himal in 1991
Doug Scott’s Mountain Technology Ice Axe (online auction)
Mountain Technology, founded by aerospace engineer Hugh McNicol and operating from Ballahulish, Glencoe, produced some of the most widely used axes of the 1980s and 90s.
Being auctioned is Doug Scott’s 55cm long Mountain Technology ice axe. Although it is not known on which climbs Doug used this axe, this axe was suitable for a wide variety of climbing and mountaineering situations. The axe has a Troll tape lease .
Doug Scott’s Edelrid Ultralight Climbing helmet (online auction)
German company Edelrid have been manufacturing climbing ropes and equipment for 160 years. The Edelrid Ultralight helmet was a very popular choice for mountaineers in the 1990s and early 2000s, including Doug Scott.
Doug wore this helmet during a successful ascent of the South Rib of Drohmo (6881m), near Kangchenjunga in 1998 with Roger Mear. (supporting photo included) It shows signs of considerable use and is dated 1989.
Doug Scott’s Simond Chacal technical ice climbing hammer (online auction)
The French made Simond (of Chamonix) Chacal ice hammer, made from 1975 to late 1980s, was a popular choice for ice climbing and technical mountaineering. It featured an innovative reverse ‘banana pick’ and was usually paired with a reverse pick ice axe called the Barracouda.
Doug used ‘banana pick’ style axes on Drohmo, near Kangchenjunga in 1998 (supporting image attached).
Doug’s Chacal is 50cm in length, has a lease made by Charlet Moser and shows obvious signs of considerable hard use!
Doug Scott’s Lowe CAMP Foot Fangs crampons (online auction)
Lowe CAMP Foot Fangs, originating in 1976 and manufactured in Italy were one of the first step- in crampons. They featured a novel anti-snow balling plate to help prevent the build up of snow under the crampon.
The crampons have 20 points and are rigid – suitable for steep ice climbing. Doug used a set in 1986 whilst climbing The Glass Madonna icefall at an International gathering of climbers in Austria.
However, Foot Fangs enjoyed a relatively brief period of popularity due to constant developments in boot and crampon design.
Arc’teryx Polartec climbing suit (online auction)
Canadian company Arc’teryx, founded in 1991 by Dave Lane and Jeremy Guard, produced technical, high end and mostly very expensive outdoor clothing.
Doug’s Polartec climbing suit was manufactured in Canada, is size Large (Grand) and features full length leg zips, two front chest zipped pockets, a fleece lining and a soft shell outer.
It is in reasonable condition, the YKK zips all work and it is quite wearable, should you wish to.
Doug Scott’s Contax T VS camera (online auction)
Doug’s camera gear until 1967 was an Ilford Sportsman. He then changed to Pentax SLR cameras – though on Everest 1975 he used the expedition issue Olympus OM 1 camera.
As well as his favoured Pentax SLR cameras, Doug often carried a second compact camera. One of his favourites was the high quality, Japanese made, Contax T series cameras by Kyocera manufactured between 1984 and 2005.
This compact rangefinder 35mm film camera had a lightweight titanium body and a Carl Zeiss Sonnar lens. These quality cameras are still prized by film enthusiasts today.
Being auctioned is one of Doug’s later Contax T cameras, a T VS model, featuring a Carl Zeiss 28 – 56 Vario Sonner lens and built in auto flash. The original Contax case is included.
Doug Scott’s Feathered Friends down suit (online auction)
Feathered Friends have been making mountaineering gear from their base in Seattle, USA, since 1972. Company founders Peter and Carol Hickner specialise in well designed, functional, high quality clothing, footwear and down gear.
Being auctioned is a down suit worn by Doug, though we have not been able to identify on which climbs. However, it is probable it was used on climbs in North America or Canada. The suit shows it’s use … with quick-fire climbers repairs to tears in the outer Pertex fabric using gaffer tape and Elastoplast!
It is a large size and all the YKK zips still work.
Doug Scott’s Feathered Friends Wind Suit (online auction)
Feathered Friends have been making mountaineering gear from their base in Seattle, USA, since 1972. Company founders Peter and Carol Hickner specialise in well designed, functional, high quality clothing, footwear and down gear.
Being auctioned is a wind suit worn by Doug, which would typically be worn over a down suit. Doug has written his initials ‘DS’ on the inside of the suit in felt tip pen. We have not been able to identify on which climbs Doug wore this suit. However, it is probable it was used on climbs in North America or Canada.
It is a large size and all the YKK zips still work.
Buffalo Tecmax mountain shirt (online auction)
Hamish Hamilton developed his Buffalo clothing system during the 1980s. They featured innovative design including insulated hoods and zipped underarm vents. The fibre pile lining aims to wick away moisture from the body onto the outer shell, from where it would evaporate.
Doug’s lightly worn Buffalo Mountain shirt is size 46 and still has plenty of life left in it.
Doug wore an earlier version of this Buffalo shirt (light blue in colour) climbing on Drohmo, near Kangchenjunga in 1998. (supporting photo included).
Doug Scott’s Big Wall climbing gear (online auction)
Doug was one of the world’s leading big wall climbers in the 1960s and 1970s. He even wrote a book about it, titled Big Wall Climbing: Development, Techniques and Aids (1974 published by Kaye and Ward)
This auction lot is a selection of big wall climbing gear, from across a number of years, though mostly 1969 to 1973. This gear was perhaps used on Strone Ulladale, Outer Hebrides 1969, Salathe Wall, El Capitan with Peter Habeler 1970 and Mount Asgard, Baffin Island with Tut Braithwaite 1972.
Copperheads: 7 of various sizes by Bill Forest
Rurps (Realized Ultimate Reality Pitons): 6 by Chouinard
Horizontal pegs and vertical pegs: 5 by CAMP, Chouinard, Simond and homemade
Sky hooks: 3 by Clog and Leeper
Haul pulley: by Stubai of Austria
Troll no. 3 hex nut on wire
All above items are hanging from 2 karabiners
Set of friends, from Doug Scott’s own rock climbing rack (online auction)
Wild Country Friends, launched in 1978, revolutionised rock climbing protection and safety.
A partnership between USA climber, aerospace engineer and inventor Ray Jardine and UK climber and entrepreneur Mark Vallance, Friends have a place in almost every climber’s rack.
The Friend is a camming device which can be slotted into cracks of varying sizes and then opens out to fit securely in the crack. It was first shown to the world on BBC’s Tomorrow’s World in 1978. Mark Vallance demonstrated Friends in action, on TV, by taking a huge leader fall onto two Friends on a climb at Millstone Edge in the Peak District! Within six months Friends were exported across the world.
Doug’s set of five original ‘vintage’ friends, being auctioned, are sizes 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 and 4 (1.5 being the smallest and 4 the largest)
Doug Scott’s ice climbing gear, selection from late 1960s into 1970s (online auction)
Doug’s interest in and achievements in winter mountaineering ran side by side with his rock climbing from an early age. Doug’s first alpine season was in 1958, aged just 17, in Kandersteg Switzerland.
Being auctioned is a small selection of Doug’s ice gear:
2 no. drive in / screw out ‘Snarg’ ice screws by Lowe. Made in Italy
1 no. drive in / screw out ice ‘Snarg’ style screw by Salewa. Made in Germany
2 no. Warthog style drive ins by Cassin.
1 no. Warthog style drive in by Salewa
1 no. Charlet Moser ‘Corkscrew’ ice screw from 1960s. Made in France
Also included: two karabiners- one Stubai Austria brand, one unbranded
One Charlet Moser Fifi hook for use with etriers (ladders) in aid climbing
Doug Scott’s Berghaus Ice Star rucksack (online auction)
Being auctioned is a rucksack well used by Doug. Approximately 30 – 35 litres capacity it is designed as a day sack, suitable for winter climbing. It features two zipped pockets in the lid and a non-padded waist belt. It likely dates from the 1980s / early 1990s.
Everest The Hard Way by Chris Bonington: First Edition signed by 12 expedition members (online auction)
Everest The Hard Way, published in 1976 by Hodder and Stoughton, is a legendary book in mountaineering literature. It tells the story of the first ever British ascent of Everest and also the first ascent of the South West Face, which had defeated all previous attempts.
Chris was given just six weeks to write the book by the publishers. Remarkedly, he achieved this; with a narrative of great detail, with a gripping story line and with a very human tale of success and tragedy.
This hardback, first edition, with dust cover, in very good condition features the signatures of team members: Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Paul Braithwaite, Charles Clarke, Jim Duff, Adrian Gordon, Doug Scott, Ang Phurba Sherpa, Pertemba Sherpa, Ian Stuart, Chris Ralling and Mike Thompson
British Cerro Torre Expedition 1967 Special expedition postcard: signed by expedition team (online auction)
In November 1967 a strong British team headed to Patagonia to attempt Cerro Torre, a notoriously difficult 3,128m rock tower. Battered by strong winds the summit often features a large ‘mushroom’ of rime ice, further increasing the difficulty of the climb.
The team comprised of Martin Boysen, Mick Burke and Dougal Haston (all members of the 1975 Everest South West Face team) and Pete Crew. Three of the four are sadly no longer with us:
Mick Burke lost his life on the Everest 1975 expedition, Dougal Haston died after being avalanched skiing in 1977 above his home in Switzerland and Pete Crew passed away in August 2025.
This special expedition postcard, in excellent condition features the signatures of all four team members, is stamped at dated Base Camp 15 Dec 1967 and features four Argentina postage stamps. It was posted to J.H.R. Horby Esq. of Stoke on Trent.
A photograph of the Cerro Torre rock tower features on the front of the post card.
The Ogre: by Doug Scott. First edition (2017), hardback, with dustcover, copy signed by expedition members and Reinhold Messner (online auction)
Doug Scott and Chris Bonington’s 1977 ascent and subsequent descent, of the Ogre in Pakistan has a legendary place in world mountaineering.
Doug broke both legs whilst descending from the summit. There then followed an epic seven-day crawl down the mountain to base camp, heroically aided by Clive Rowland and Chris Bonington. Chris himself sustained broken ribs in the descent. When rescue eventually came, the helicopter Chris was travelling in crashed. Ironically, Doug had invited Chris on the trip as a ‘thank you’ for being invited to Everest South West Face in 1975!
The story is recounted in dramatic fashion in this first edition, hardback copy of The Ogre.
Signed by expedition members:
Doug Scott
Clive Rowland
Chris Bonington
Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite
And also signed by Reinhold Messner (the first person to climb all 14 8000metre peaks)
Doug Scott’s Berghaus AQ winter mountaineering gloves (Online auction)
Being auctioned is a pair of Berghaus AQ mountaineering gloves from Doug’s winter gear box. Size Large. Used, but still plenty of life in them.
Doug Scott’s Karrimor expedition kit bag with Pakistan International Airlines flight tag (online auction)
Doug made many expeditions to Pakistan and the Karakoram, including four attempts on K2 during the late 1970s and into the 1980s, though without success.
Being auctioned is Doug’s Karrimor expedition kit bag (probably from the 1980s) features a PIA fight tag bearing the code PIA 20-91-06. This very large kit bag has approximately 100 litres capacity.
Baffin Island art print signed by Doug Scott, Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite and Sir Chris Bonington (online auction)
Image dimensions: 456mm (w) x 300mm (h) landscape format, unframed and unmounted
Printed on art paper and signed in graphite pencil – the correct way to avoid UV light fading of the signatures
Doug Scott climbed on Baffin Island a number of times. In 1972 he climbed the East Face of Mount Asgard with Paul ‘Tut’ Braithwaite, Dennis Hennek and Paul Nunn.
Mount Asgard played a famous role in the 1977 James Bond film ‘The Spy Who Loved Me’. In the iconic opening scene, Roger Moore (actually stunt man Rick Sylvester) skies off the top Mount Asgard, and then parachutes serenely to the snows below under his Union Jack parachute. Classic!
Dougal Haston climbing the Hillary Step Art print, signed by Edmund Hillary, Pertemba Sherpa, Doug Scott and Chris Bonington. Photograph by Doug Scott (online auction)
The Hillary Step, just below the summit of Mount Everest, is the highest named place on earth. It is named after Ed Hillary the New Zealand mountaineer who made the first ascent of Everest in May 1953 with climbing partner Sherpa Tenzing Norgay.
Doug Scott’s photo of Dougal Haston climbing the Hillary Step, taken on 24th September 1975, is perhaps the most famous climbing photo ever taken on Everest. It’s all the more remarkable because Doug had to load a new role of film into his camera to take it, all whilst sat straddling the summit ridge of Everest with one leg in Nepal and one in Tibet!
The Hillary Step is an 80 feet high step, with seventy degrees in steepness, which leads to the summit of Everest. When Doug Scott and Dougal Haston climbed it in September 1975 it was covered in monsoon snow that Doug described as having the “consistency of sugar”.
The art print is no. 86 of 850 and is signed by Ed Hillary, Doug Scott, Chris Bonington and Pertemba Sherpa – who have all summitted Everest.
It is signed in pencil, the correct way to avoid UV light fading of the signatures.
Image size: 250mm (w) x 165mm (h) landscape
Mounting board size: 380mm (w) x 305mm (h)
Unframed.