Friday, 13 February 2026 17:43

Bernina: a journey like no other

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When someone asks what the first thing to come to mind is when you mention Switzerland the chances are most people will say chocolates or cheese, maybe watches or mountains or even banks.

But you can find all of these in numerous places outside Switzerland; Belgium will claim it's a match for chocolates and France for cheese. When it comes to scenic railways, however, Switzerland stands alone. Where other countries may push one or possibly two routes that should be on any traveller's bucket list Switzerland can name half a dozen, and for many peple the ultimate is the UNESCO World-Heritage listed Berninia Express.

OK the Bernina isn't wholly in Switzerland, its route traverses the 122km route between Chur in the Canton of Grisons (aka Graubünden) to Tirano in Italy's Lombardy. Along the route it takes in 55 tunnels and 196 bridges. Where most railway stations around the world are accessible by road but on the route of the Bernina Express you're treated to stations like Alp Grüm, so remote it can only be accessed by rail or on foot. The route takes one of the most spectacular viaducts at at Brusio and Landwasser, the former a 110m long spiral that takes a 360 degree loop at a 7% gradient to climb from the valley floor and the latter a 142m long curved viaduct with six arches high above the valley floor between Schmitten and Filisur. Operated by the Rhaetian Railway, the route is the highest railway crossing in the Alps, reaching a high point of 2,253m and connects not only Chur, but also St Moritz to Tirano. During the summer there's also a connecting bus from Tirano to Lugano, where you can join another of Switzerland's scenic routes; the Gothard  Panoramic Express.

Bernina and glacier express

"Panoramic" is a word you'll often hear associated with the scenic Swiss routes, and it's definitely one that's associated with the Bernina Express. While there are standard trains that run the route for commuters the four hour journey also boasts a number of panoramic trains with carriages almost completely covered in glass. The service is so popular that seats have to be booked ahead to be certain of a seat, and well in advance to get one on the best side; the right hand side when travelling south and the left when travelling north. 

Bernina-express-at-Tirano.jpg

 Starting from the southern end the train sets off through the streets of Tirano emerging into the Lombardy countryside and heading north along the valley floor towards the first highlight of the route the Brusio Spiral Viaduct. Heading north the train takes an anti-clockwise spiral as it gains up to 20m in height over a distance of 100m.

Brusio Viaduct

With 35 stations between Tirano and Chur it's easy to lose track of how far along you are, but Rhaetian have helpfully put the route map on the tables throughout the train. Along with the Bernina line the map also includes the Albula lines the map showcases other lines throughout Graubunden. It's worth noting that while the Bernina is the name given to the train the Bernina line only runs from Tirano to St Moritz with the Albula line running from St Moritz to Chur. The Albula line also plays host to the Glacier Express from Zermatt; another classic scenic route often referred to as the world's slowest express. It's worth checking when booking whether the train you catch at Tirano is to Chur, direct, or to St Moritz, with a change needed if you wish to take the complete route in.

Bernina table

Beyond the Brusio Viaduct the scenery starts to change from lush Lombardy fields to alpine, with the mountains appearing on the far side of Miralago.  Here the River Poschiavo flows out to the village of the same name. The line now runs alongside the river as it starts to really climb from 964m at Miralago to 2091 at Alp Grüm and then to 2,253m at Ozpizio Bernina.

Bernina river Poschiavo 

 At Alp Grüm you can give your senses a temporary break as the train stops here for  up to 20 minutes, giving just enough time to grab a coffee and snack from the station's restaurant, or take a little longer and catch the next train onwards. Heading north you exit the train on the left with stunning views of the Palü Glacier and Val Poschiavo.

Alp Grum

Bernina Palu Glacier 

Beyond Alp Grüm the route completes the climb to Ozpizio Bernina where it meets Lago Bianco reservoir and the watershed where the water to the north and east flows to the Danube and the Black Sea with the waters to the west and south flowing to the Adriatic and Mediterranean. As well as being the dividing point for the rainfall it also marks the boundary of the Italian speaking Poschiavo valley and the start of the German/Romansh-speaking Engadin valley.

Bernina Lago Bianco

 While there are may be higher railway stations the line to Ospizio Bernina marks the highest railway crossing in the Alps and boast a sign in 3 languages highlighting its 2,256m (7403ft).

Bernina Ospizio Bernina 

Beyond Ospizio Bernina the line starts to descend to Pontresina and while it initiallly lacks the drama of the ascent the line leaves the barren surroundings of the Lago Bianco to run through tree linedslopes to where it divides to the St Moritz loop. 

Bernina plateau

Bernina descent

hpgruesen st moritz 3103458 1280

Beyond Samedan the line enters the Albula Tunnel, an engineering masterpiece in its own right. At 1800m above sea level it was the highest railway tunnel in the Alps when opened in 1903. Between 2014 and 2024 a new tunnel was constructed alongside the original tunnel, which will become a saftey tunnel with work connecting the two tunnels due for completion in 2026. The new Albula Tunnel is 5.86 kilometres long and designed for speeds of up to 120 km/h.

With the Albula Tunnel behind you the next highlight is the iconic Landwasser viaductiaduct. As you exit the 216m long Landwasser Tunnel you emege onto the viduct, 65m above the valley floor, as it it curves to the left for 142m. Along with the Bernina Express route the viaduct is one of the best known sights of the Glacier Express from Zermatt to St Moritz.

Bernina Landwasser

After the Landwasser Viaduct the line becomes more gentle and loses much of the drama but by no means the beauty. Rugged mountainsslowly give way again to green valleys and there's still no shortage of bridges and tunnels as you pass first through Filisur and then Thusis. After 4 hours you approach the capital of Graubünden, Chur. Thje oldest city in Switzerland, Chur has been settled since pre-Roman times and retains its 13th century Cathedral of the Assumption, in the courtyard of the Bishop's Palace.

Bernina Chur

It's great spot to sit down and take in what you've just experienced!

 At its highest point the Bernina Express meets glaciers whilst at its southern end you have palm trees. You can book your tickets at Rhaetian Railways, The images from this trip were taken in May 2025 and reflect the route in Spring. In winter you obviously get a great deal more snow and it's almost a completely different experience. The only question isn't whether it's worth doing - it's do you go in summer or winter, or both?